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We get quite a few emails from readers about the difference between a blazer and a suit jacket. We spoke to Alex Wilcox, owner of Lord Willy’s, a great men’s haberdasher in New York City, to tell us a little bit more about the historic jacket and what to look for when buying one. A bit of history: This style of jacket originated from HMS Blazer. As the story goes, the young Queen Victoria was to visit the frigate and the captain made the crew sew on brass buttons to their uniforms to give them a more elegant look. They did so and the queen was so impressed that she commanded that all Naval officers wear ‘blazers’ with brass buttons on them from then on. And they still do. The blazer has more of an air of playfulness. This is a jacket you throw on for an outdoor party; a night out with friends and even to travel in. The blazer is elegant but ‘off duty’ so you can get away with no tie, an open shirt button and a pair of jeans. Double Breasted Blazers: Double breasted is another option. It should not be your first blazer because the fit just doesn’t work for everyone. It also is very elegant and cosmopolitan but is for the more confident blazer wearer. (Also, the double-breasted looks awkward when not buttoned. We are talking to you David Letterman!) There is a four button, which is more relaxed, and more Continental (think of those Italian and French playboys). The six buttons is more English and ‘stiff upper lip’. Things to look for in a blazer: A blazer is usually navy. There are black and grey blazers too but navy is most common. A good blazer will have brass or chrome buttons. The lapels and silhouette are always classic in form but the lining can be a little more fun. The length of the jacket should be shorter than your average jacket. This lends an air of a sportier jacket. Pair your blazer with dark denim or a great pair of chinos. http://www.themanual.com/fashion/how-to-choose-blazer/
for More go to https://gentl.mn/suit-differences-full-guide In this video, we highlight the key differences between a $100 dollar suit and a $1000 dollar suit and explain to you what you have to look for so you get the best value for your money. First, let's focus on the $100 dollar suit. Basically, it is a completely machine-made suit that is sewn together in 2-3 hours max and there is no handwork whatsoever. When it comes to suits, hand sewing is better because it is more flexible and it adapts to your body more easily and so especially for a jacket, you always want more handwork. A $100 dollar suit is made of very cheap fabric and cheap lining, that means, it's usually stretched polyester with nylon or other artificial fibers. Also, the raw materials may be cotton or wool that go into that fabric are of the lowest quality possible. It simply is stiffer, less comfortable, and you're more prone to sweating in it. A $100 suit has a glued interlining. So, what exactly is interlining and why do you use it? When you start out with fabric, you have a two-dimensional surface, in order to keep it in a three-dimensional shape, you need a second layer and the layer needs to be attached in a certain shape. For the $100 suit, this interlining is of very low quality and is glued to the fabric, that works in the beginning but it also acts as an insulator so you're much more likely to overheat and sweat. Another aspect of a $100 suit is the lack of attention to details. For example, the buttonholes are first sewn and then cut not the other way around that means you see some fraying. Also, the trimmings are usually low-quality, the buttons are plastic, the lining is polyester, and everything is made to remain low on the cost side but it also means low on the quality. The cut of a $100 suit can in theory, be as good as the on of a $1000 suit or a more expensive suit but in practice, that's really rarely the case. More often than not, $100 suits are either very fashion-forward, with very skinny lapels and you can only wear them a year max, before they go out of fashion or they're simply old-fashioned and the cut is boxy and bulky and simply not favorable. Another pet peeve of mine is the deep-cut armhole that restricts your movement and $100 suits usually have this 90% of all cases. In recent years, it has changed a little bit, sometimes they have adopted more modern cuts and they try to go with details such as working buttonholes, but in reality, they still use cheap buttonholes and it still looks cheap. The time that goes into a thousand dollar suit can range from 8 hours to 30 hours so that's obviously a huge difference and you will also be able to feel that. Generally, a thousand dollar suit show some amount of handwork. Sometimes, they have decorative elements like hand-sewn buttonholes that look really nice, they use a silk thread that is shiny or a cotton thread, they may have machine-made buttonholes but it looks nice. They may have an interlining that is sewn in hand or a collar which makes it softer and fit better and make you look better. The biggest advantage of a thousand dollar suit over a hundred dollar suit is the interlining and the construction. Where the $100 suit has a glued interlining, the $1000 suit has a half canvas or full canvas interlining. A half canvas is actually sewn to the fabric and it's usually made of materials such as horsehair or cotton or wool and that way, it's more breathable so you don't overheat. To save on cost, this form of interlining is only used on the upper part of your body such as your chest and it's glued at the bottom part of your jacket. Full canvas means that the interlining is sewn throughout your jacket and it's the best version you can get. At a thousand dollar price point, usually, these canvases are made by machine and not by hand. This little secret has helped me save a lot of money and to get quality suits. When I walk into a store and look at suits, the first thing I do is I flap up the collar and look at the stitching. If it is machine-sewn, I move on especially at a vintage store. If it's hand-sewn, I take the jacket off and take a closer look. I do this because a hand-sewn collar indicate a very high quality. If the collar is hand-sewn, chances are, it's a high-quality garment and it deserves a second look and you can use the hallmarks I described in this video to identify if you should buy it or not. ======================================= To never miss any of our videos again, sign up here for free: https://gentl.mn/1TyIECO Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel! https://www.youtube.com/user/thegentlemansgazette ======================================= Gentleman's Gazette https://gentl.mn/1YhemIW https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gentlemansgazette Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gentlemansgazette/ FREE EBOOK: https://gentl.mn/1TyIECO
Finding perfect-fitting clothes is an easy 3-step process at our Made to Measure Trunk Show! 1. Get your measurements taken in store by our expert staff 2. Choose from hundreds of pattern and fabric swatches 3. Come back in 4-5 weeks to pick up your new suit or shirt If you've never owned built-to-fit clothing, now's the time to find out what you've been missing.
For an in-depth guide to navy & striped blazers, click here: https://gentl.mn/blazer-guide Get the accessories I’m wearing: Burgundy Silk Pocket Square with little Paisley Motifs: https://gentl.mn/2kYzC9V Knit Tie in Solid Pale Yellow Silk: https://gentl.mn/2lA9pS3 The blazer is an integral part of every gentleman's and every man should have at least one. So, what exactly is a blazer? First, it's a stand alone jacket with non-matching trousers and it can mean a different color, a different pattern, and different texture. So you can have worsteds, flannel, even tweed or striped trousers and it will all qualify as a blazer combination. A blazer is either a jacket with a solid color such as navy blue, I'm wearing here or it could be of stripes, usually bold stripes, not a pinstripe, not a chalk stripe. Anything else like houndstooth, checks, is not a blazer. Most blazers in the market today come in a solid, navy blue such as the ones you can see here. Sometimes you can also find them in bottle green, maybe in red or an off white, but that's basically the color scheme. Colorful blazers sometimes come with a contrast trim in yellow or red or white and it's a very bold look, that's why you rarely see it. Blazers often come double breasted, as you can see here. This is a 6x2, 6 buttons and 2 closing buttons. You can also find 6x3 which mean 6 buttons, 3 closing buttons or 8x3 which mean 8 buttons with 3 closing buttons. Alternatively, you can also have a single breasted blazer and that's the one I'm wearing here, right now. Usually, single-breasted blazers come in 2 or 3 closing buttons, rarely in 4 or 1. Another distinctive hallmark of a blazer are the buttons. The most popular options for blazer buttons are brass, which has that gold tone or pure which is kind of a dark silver and you also see people who use pure, yellow gold or white gold but that makes your blazer very, very expensive. For a more casual look, you can also use contrasting, horn buttons. My personal, casual favorite is white, mother of pearl because it creates a strong contrast, designated as a blazer but it's still classic. So, always make sure your blazer has contrasting buttons. Another aspect that you have to pay attention to is the pockets. If you want your blazer to be more casual, I suggest you opt for patch pockets. On the other hand, this blazer has traditional pockets with the flap and it just depends on what look you're going for. Another very important aspect of a blazer is the fabric. The most popular blazer fabric is serge. Another great alternative is hopsack which has kind of a two-dimensional, three-dimensional look because it sometimes has different colors, it's very popular in Italy. If you live in colder climates, maybe think about going with a navy flannel blazer, it has a very sophisticated look, and it keeps you warm. If you live in warmer climates, think about maybe a linen blazer or a fresco blazer.Striped blazers often come in cotton, sometimes in velvet or combination of wool and cotton. In terms of vents, I suggest you go with side vents because center vents are just for horseback riding. For sleeve buttons,I suggest you go with three or traditional four, if you want it more casual, you can also go with two. Generally, a blazer should fit like a suit jacket or a sport coat. What does it mean? It means the shoulder seam should be on your shoulder bone. The collar should sit tight against your neck. You want to have some room in your shoulders, ideally, you want a smaller armhole for a greater range of movement and in terms of length, always cover your rear end. If you want a more formal blazer, you should get a more structured interlining. Traditionally, blazers often had shoulder pads but at the moment, a lot of people prefer them without shoulder pads and small armholes for a very natural shoulder line. Last but not the least, how should you wear and combine a blazer? As I indicated before, you want to match contrasting trousers. The good thing about that is, you can use basically any trouser you have in your closet. The only thing to avoid with a blazer is black pants and black altogether because black and navy never work well. ======================================= To never miss any of our videos again, sign up here for free: https://gentl.mn/1TuTKgG Want to see more videos? Subscribe to our channel! https://www.youtube.com/user/thegentlemansgazette ======================================= Gentleman's Gazette https://gentl.mn/1S11CRw https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/gentlemansgazette Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gentlemansgazette/ FREE EBOOK: https://gentl.mn/1TuTKgG
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Top 10 Hart Schaffner Marx Men Clothings [ Winter 2018 ]: Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Big and Tall
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Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Big and Tall Burnett Trench Coat, Navy, 54L Marx Mens Big and Tall Burnett Trench Coat, Navy, 54L
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Hartsdale All Weather Raincoat, Black, 48 Regular Marx Mens Hartsdale All Weather Raincoat, Black, 48 Regular
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Single Pleat Chicago Fit Dress Pant, Brown, 38 Regular Marx Mens Single Pleat Chicago Fit Dress Pant, Brown, 38...
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens 2 Brass Button Chicago Fit Center Vent Blazer, Navy, 42 Regular Marx Mens 2 Brass Button Chicago Fit Center Vent Blazer, Navy,...
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Chicago Fit Flat Front Dress Pant, Dark Blue, 34 Regular Marx Mens Chicago Fit Flat Front Dress Pant, Dark Blue, 34...
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Big and Tall Captain Double Breasted Peacoat, Black, 2XT Marx Mens Big and Tall Captain Double Breasted Peacoat, Black,...
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens 2 Button NY Fit Side Vent Suit, Black, 42 Long Marx Mens 2 Button NY Fit Side Vent Suit, Black, 42 Long
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens 2 Button Chicago Fit Suit With Flat Front Pant, Charcoal Stripe, 42 Long Marx Mens 2 Button Chicago Fit Suit With Flat Front Pant,...
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Topper Dress Wool Top Coat, Black, 46L Marx Mens Topper Dress Wool Top Coat, Black, 46L
Hart Schaffner Marx Mens Raider Wool James Dean Jacket, Black Heather, XXL Marx Mens Raider Wool James Dean Jacket, Black Heather, XXL
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