Can I Caulk Large Siding Gaps? – Building Maintenance Tips

author gregvancom   2 год. назад
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Proper Caulking Techniques | Wausau Siding Systems

Designed with the Installer in Mind: In this instructional video, we demonstrate how to use proper caulk techniques on LP SmartSide products pre-finished with Diamond Kote, which recommends DAP DYNAFLEX 920. DAP has color matching caulk for all Diamond Kote Color Collections. Learn more about sealant here: http://bit.ly/DKweb28 Install Guide: http://www.diamondkoteprefinishing.com/install Diamond Kote is an innovative 30-Year No Fade finish that is specifically designed for Wausau Siding Systems. Our products are designed to be used as an integrated system to protect your home's exterior. We set a goal to be different- From our engineered colors, to our application process, to our packaging, our warranty and installation.

Tips on Caulking Wide Gaps : Home Sweet Home Repair

Subscribe Now: http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=ehowatHomeChannel Watch More: http://www.youtube.com/ehowatHomeChannel Caulking wide gaps requires you to understand that caulk isn't exactly flexible. Get tips on caulking wide gaps with help from the president and owner of Source Development Inc. in this free video clip. Expert: Nicholas Iarocci Filmmaker: Alan Mack Series Description: Not all plumbing issues or appliance installations require the expensive help of a local professional. Get tips on plumbing with help from the president and owner of Source Development Inc. in this free video series.

Treatment of Field Joints/Butt Joints on Hardieplank Lap Siding (primed version)

On older installations of Hardieplank lap siding the field/butt joints would have an "appropriate gap", which at one time was specifically designated as 1/8th of an inch, and the gap would (typically) be caulked (very few exceptions applied). Since they were caulked, this created a maintenance issue: they had to be kept caulked. More recent installations, especially after 2008, will have flashing used at the field/butt joints, not caulking, which is now the "preferred" manner of installation by the manufacturer, though at the time of writing the installer could still use caulking as it will not void the manufacturer's warranty, per their own information. Another thing that changed was face nailing at the field joints: this lead to cracked siding at the lower corners by the field/butt joints. They are now blind nailed (meaning that you can't see the nails).

Replacing your rotten wood siding!

Easy instructions on replacing your rotten siding. Shortcuts and tips!

Basic Caulking Tips & Tricks - How to

How to replace your tub and tile caulk and window glazing for home and marine repairs. Tools and techniques to get a professional finish the first time you try laying a bead of sealant. Demonstrates taping techniques and saving a botched job using scrapers and paint thinner. Skills anyone can take to the bank! Transcript provided for the hearing impaired: So today on Repairs101 I’ve got some basic tips and tricks for applying caulking for tub and tile or windows around your home or boat. You know, besides windows and cold-frames, kitchen and bathrooms, a boat has skylights, portholes, hatches, instruments, as well as thru-hulls, transducers, knot meters and even more that all need to be sealed water tight for obvious reasons. You’ll need a cleaner of some kind and some paint thinner, some rags and whatever scrapers you have made of steel and plastic. You’ll also need a caulking gun and the right sealant for the job you’re going to do. Alright now the first thing I’ll talk about is the worst thing – having to work around someone’s toilet. So grab a couple of garbage bags, some scissors and wrap that sucker up with a protective layer for your pleasure and comfort. OK now usually I’ll start off with a steel scraper and follow that with a plastic scraper, maybe finish off with a razor blade, or an abrasive cleaner and a wipe down with paint thinner. Now taping is optional because your edges can be refined using a scraper and a rag. Now a really common problem I see is people loading their goo-gun and pumping and pumping and pumping and nothing comes out. It’s because there’s another seal inside the nozzle. This one just unscrews and you cut it off. Others you’ll have to push a long screwdriver or something long and sharp into the tip of the nozzle in order to break the seal. OK so the best tip I have is to wet your finger with paint thinner to achieve a smooth and glossy finish. Excess gets wiped up with a clean and dry rag. Now for a very limited period of time you can fill in holes or flatten ridges with your finger wetted with paint thinner and you can define edges using your scraper. But once it skins over it’s become too late to touch it and if you do you’ll just ruin it and have to start over again. Alright thanks for watching and don’t forget to subscribe!

http://www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/repairs/siding/index.html Click on this link for more siding repair, home building and painting video tips. I'm not suggesting that caulking large gaps or gaps larger than a quarter of an inch will always provide you with a solution to your problem, but if it's something that's bothering you, because you have pests, moisture or air entering your home through these areas, then why not give it a shot.

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